Two weeks surfing a dangerous shore break. 20 hours of paddling in rips and closeouts. Over 200 wipeouts. And then it finally happened, my first tube! Subscribe for relatable surfing content! Picture-perfect waves, ridden by absolute shredders are everywhere these days. Now let’s be real, most of us did not grow up surfing and do not live in Hawaï. This channel is about sharing what surfing is really like for the average person. I started surfing at 25 and live in France, so my reality involves a lot of subpar conditions, cold water and sometimes, when the stars align, some epic waves. But be it small, choppy or pumping, I don’t care. As long as I can drop in and do a turn, I am out there! Board : Olaïan Shortboard 900 Perf, 5'11", 27L. Camera : DJI Osmo Action 4, 2.7K (4:3) at 60FPS, with RockSteady. 00:00 Introduction 00:20 Session starts 01:03 Surfing starts 01:56 Not the best spot 02:56 Girlfriend gets pissed 04:34 I'm starting to believe 06:09 Losing hope 07:33 Almost giving up 08:06 My first barrel! 09:25 Trying hard for another one 13:05 End of the session